S Bulletin

Kundan Jewellery

Kundan Jewellery

Kundan is a traditional Indian gemstone usually used for making elaborate necklaces. The concept of this jewellery type originated in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat. The word Kundan means refined gold and the making of it thus lives up to its definition. The city of Jaipur in Rajasthan has traditionally been the centre for Kundan jewellery in India. The sheer beauty and magnificence of Kundan jewellery is astoundingly eye catching. These enamouring works of art are still made today. The skill bestowed in the craftsmen behind these hand-made marvels is divine. Kundan jewellery has made a royal mark in India’s history. It started out in the North, specifically in Rajasthan. Its southern counterpart was in Hyderabad. Considered to be the oldest form of jewellery making, the art of Kundan prospered in the Mughal era and hasn’t gone out of fashion since.

The royal design makes  Kundan one of the most enchanting forms of jewellery in the entire world. Although modern fashion has remade Kundan jewellery to suit a trendier generation, the old-fashioned design and appeal lingers on. Traditional Indian weddings are the best time to use Kundan. Mixing and matching using anklets and bangles.

Each stage of the process is specialised. The process of making Kundan jewellery starts with the making of ghat in 22 karat gold, which is known as Gadhayi. It is a typical mould-like framework which is set according to the design, using thin golden strips which are then cut, coiled and shaped. The step that follows is known as Khudayi, which involves engraving the outer surface with the required designs and patterns. And has its own extended time-frame. This also means a different crafter with skills to match deals with each stage. Since gold is the basic layer on which stones are set, the process begins with creating a thin gold sheet. They then fill it with lac (or laakh). The crafter welds these frames to the base using gold. What’s left is cleaning, washing and polishing. There are some prominent styles in Kundan jewellery making.

1. Meenakari/Meena The crafter engraves the colour areas and then pours enamel dust into the shallow etchings.

2. Polki – These have uncut diamonds as the main stone attraction.

3. Jadau – These jewellery pieces have stones encrusted on one face. The whole jewelry piece is nothing short of enchanting.


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